Name: Maria Gallo Fonda & Cantina
Address: Morelos #558, Centro (Across from Galería Uno)
Telephone: 223-1193
Type of food: Mexican Fusion, International
What I’d heard about it beforehand: I had seen Maria Gallo’s in passing, but ended up stopping by one day when I was in the neighborhood before my normal dinner time. I noticed their sign for comida corrida, which is one of my favorite things to try lately. If you’ve never had it before, comida corrida is a set meal available around lunchtime (mid-late afternoon), usually including a soup or salad, main course, drink, and sometimes dessert for a great low price. The downside is that there’s usually not a lot to choose from – if you don’t like what’s on the menu, tough luck – but I noticed immediately that Maria Gallo’s had a great selection of two soups and several main courses to choose from (including a vegetarian option), all for $55.
Atmosphere: For getting a bargain meal, you don’t feel like you’re eating in a hole in the wall. The restaurant has a café sort of feeling, with local art on the walls and vintage luchador memorabilia in the brightly lit and painted wall crèches. It also feels like there are a lot of the owner Memo’s personal items – books, art, and other intriguing items are in every corner, making you feel like you’ve been invited over. I like to sit near the windows in the front so I can people-watch, but there’s a neat little open garden in the back and more art to look at throughout the restaurant. It’s the little touches that make it a charming place – for instance, the silverware is wrapped in a napkin and tied with a little string.
Service: Every time I’m there (which, in the last few weeks, has been three times), the owner has come and said hello and I’ve had friendly service from all of the staff. Again, when I go there I feel like I’m getting a lot for my $55 – and someone always takes the time to explain what’s on the daily menu.
Drinks: Comida corrida there comes with agua fresca, and it’s always made fresh (you can see the fruit in it!). My favorite I’ve tried there has been a combination of grape, papaya, and lime. I also really like that they bring a whole pitcher to your table, because it always spoils my time eating out when I look at the bill and find out I’ve been hugely overcharged for a can of Coke or a bottle of water.
Dress Code: Come as you are, but since this restaurant is in the heart of the Art Walk district, you might not see many people in their swimsuits…
Price Range: $-$$$
My order: I should start by saying that the first two times I went I was there around 4 or 5 p.m., and had fantastic experiences with the comida corrida. For this article, I went with friends later in the evening, and was given a dinner menu and, upon asking, a comida corrida menu too. The chef told me they serve comida corrida until it’s out, and it was no problem, but I had better luck with the comida corrida going earlier. This night, however, I started with the Cream of Broccoli & Chayote soup. It had a good flavor, but needed salt and was only luke-warm – that being said the presentation was beautiful. I also ordered the Spring Chicken, which wasn’t quite what I expected – it was shredded dark meat in a spicy tomato sauce. It came with a salad (mostly iceberg lettuce, but with a fantastic sesame-type dressing), and beans. I don’t eat beans (much to the chagrin of most of Mexico), but I was told that they were sort of bland, nothing special. Now, the thing I remember from another visit the most (but don’t have a photo of) is the chimichanga – it was crispy, cheesy chicken deliciousness that I would come back for again and again if it was on the regular menu. It was so good they could sell just those and people would come, I bet.
The other guests joining me also tried the Neptuno Salad (a basic salad with raw tuna), and one friend ordered off of the regular menu instead of the comida corrida menu. She had the Enchiladas in Peanut Sauce, and we were all a little surprised when her portion was the same as ours, but more expensive. At the end of the meal, we had a little bit of confusion due to our limited Spanish-speaking abilities, and instead of ordering dessert we ended up splitting a muffin (the waiter brought it split into four parts), for no extra charge, which I thought was kind of them and funny at the same time.
The Good… I love the atmosphere, the warmth and charm of the place, and the owner Memo’s graciousness to his guests. All in all, I think this is the freshest, most delicious comida corrida in town, and even on a bad night you’ll still have unique, great food.
The Bad… After seeing the regular dinner menu, I was still more intrigued by the comida corrida. There were staple Mexican dishes (flautas and gorditas for $65, sopes, pozole, enchiladas, etc.), but nothing that intrigued me enough to abandon my latest culinary obsession.
…& the Hungry… I’m just hoping the chimichanga becomes a regular menu item. In general everything is fresh and the comida corrida menu is always changing, so I’m looking forward to seeing what they have next time. If we hadn’t embarrassed ourselves with the dessert debacle, I’d like to try one of their $19 arroz con leche desserts.
Should you spend your hard-earned peso? Fifty-five pesos?!? Can’t beat it with a stick. Just make sure you go early or order of the proper dinner menu if you’ll be later.
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